Cross the eroded volcanic spine of Bali to its northern beaches and you'll find a more relaxed and ancient way of life. While there are plenty of modern conveniences, you'll be more charmed by the timeless sight of cozy tile roofs nestled amid lush tropical gardens, against the stark red flanks of the mountains. In Pemuteran, there are several well designed resorts where you can get your own breezy cottage with private swimming pool, steps from the beach, for less than $90.
Our recent trip to Adi Assri Beach Resort and Spa was a revelation. I thought I knew Bali before we entered Pemuteran, but this was a whole new experience. Our two bedroom villa with kitchen and private pool was private indeed, surrounded by a wall high enough to see the trees but not fellow visitors strolling the meandering brick paths among its flowery gardens. We felt pampered just stepping out of our gate and off to the black sand beach, where there always seemed to be a waiter nearby, interested in our possible drink interests.
There's a small fishing village about a quarter mile down the beach, with colorful boats and rafts ready to set sail at sunset, as soon as you get your camera ready. Off they drift past the distant volcanoes of Java, which you could probably row to if you set your mind to it, they seem that close. And you wouldn't be alone; every night the sun itself dresses in red and heads toward them for its evening visit. If you can tear your eyes off that ravaging scene, the dinner pavilion is nearby, with a decent selection of seafood and Western favorites. Every night on our return, the A/C was already on, and flowers decorated our freshly made king size bed.
There's a bit of snorkeling around the beach area, and the water's warm and clear. You won't see much wave action in this shallow stretch of coast. We're coral afficionados, so we took a day trip to Menjangan Island, part of Bali's national park in the northwestern corner. The reef around this island has by far the most beautiful coral and fish I have ever seen in my life, and with little effort you can see everything except the deeper reaches of the wall. There's a light current to be aware of, but the area is shallow enough that you can snorkel from one end of the other without having to hold your breath. If you're used to snorkeling the Caribbean/Florida reefs, the variety of corals and fish at Menjangan are guaranteed to feed your dreams for the rest of your life.
Our recent trip to Adi Assri Beach Resort and Spa was a revelation. I thought I knew Bali before we entered Pemuteran, but this was a whole new experience. Our two bedroom villa with kitchen and private pool was private indeed, surrounded by a wall high enough to see the trees but not fellow visitors strolling the meandering brick paths among its flowery gardens. We felt pampered just stepping out of our gate and off to the black sand beach, where there always seemed to be a waiter nearby, interested in our possible drink interests.
There's a small fishing village about a quarter mile down the beach, with colorful boats and rafts ready to set sail at sunset, as soon as you get your camera ready. Off they drift past the distant volcanoes of Java, which you could probably row to if you set your mind to it, they seem that close. And you wouldn't be alone; every night the sun itself dresses in red and heads toward them for its evening visit. If you can tear your eyes off that ravaging scene, the dinner pavilion is nearby, with a decent selection of seafood and Western favorites. Every night on our return, the A/C was already on, and flowers decorated our freshly made king size bed.
There's a bit of snorkeling around the beach area, and the water's warm and clear. You won't see much wave action in this shallow stretch of coast. We're coral afficionados, so we took a day trip to Menjangan Island, part of Bali's national park in the northwestern corner. The reef around this island has by far the most beautiful coral and fish I have ever seen in my life, and with little effort you can see everything except the deeper reaches of the wall. There's a light current to be aware of, but the area is shallow enough that you can snorkel from one end of the other without having to hold your breath. If you're used to snorkeling the Caribbean/Florida reefs, the variety of corals and fish at Menjangan are guaranteed to feed your dreams for the rest of your life.
