Kintamani, the volcano's rim

A splendid day trip in Bali takes you north of the bustle of Denpasar into the mountain region, which is refreshingly cool compared to the low-lying beach areas. On the way you'll pass some of the most beautifully terraced hillsides in Indonesia, as well as the artisans' shops of the lovely village of Mas. The drive is about 57 km, which takes an hour and a half or so.

The town of Kintamani perches on the rim of the volcanic crater that surrounds Mt. Batur and Lake Batur. Several restaurants overlook the crater, so you can enjoy a meal with your view. There's also a beautiful temple on the cliff overlooking the mountains, dedicated to the mountain gods. A good driver will accompany you to the temple and introduce you to some of its customs and ceremonies. Twice a year there's a three-day ceremony, and worshippers are accustomed to picture-snapping tourists who wear appropriate temple garb. Don't worry, though, you can rent the sari and sash, as long as you wear a shirt that isn't too revealing. Skip the spaghetti strap cami, and wear a short sleeved t-shirt or blouse.

Kintamani is made up of three little villages,  Kintamani (the main drag, built mostly to accommodate visitors in need of a good meal with a great vista), Penelokan, and Batur. from there you can drive down into the caldera, over to Mt Batur. There's a series of roads circumnavigating the mountain, and if you want to hike Batur, you can do so much more easily from the east side at Serongga, which is on the opposite side of the mountain from Kintamani. At the moment, the trails are closed due to heightened volcanic activity in the region, which is unfortunate, because the view from the mountain at sunrise is considered one of the best in the country. The reason most guided hikes on Batur begin before dawn is the fog which tends to roll in as the day heats up. During my visit there was little more than a haze, because the dry season hadn't come to an end quite yet.

Visiting Bali from the US

If you've never been to Bali and know no one there, my first advice is to pick an area and price you're comfortable with, and find a good driver who can show you the sights and knows the history, culture and religion well. Flights are expensive and long, but renting a place and a car are fairly cheap; you can make up the difference through the inexpensive food and shopping, and daily tours courtesy of your driver.

The first thing you'll want to know is: where are the beaches, what water sports are available, what cities, villages and sights are worth a visit, and where are the best shopping areas? But beyond that, ask yourself what you might enjoy contributing while you're there. Bali may seem very cosmopolitan from a tourist perspective in say, Kuta or Seminyak, on the lovely southern coast. But it's also a country in need. So think about what you might have to offer, especially if you're staying for more than a couple of weeks. I volunteered a staff development class at a local afterschool program during my stay. There are several volunteer programs available, for example at idealist.org, adventuretravelabroad.org, and luxwordltravel.com, or volunteerabroad.com

One of the advantages of Bali's cosmopolitan side is that most people you'll meet speak English fairly well. They're comfortable with American customs and familiar with our ways, and are quite friendly and helpful.  For very little per hour you can get a surf lesson, massage, household help, laundry service, and so on. Best to make sure you get a reference first, as anywhere. I hope to provide names and numbers of Bali's better service providers here as the blog grows.