North Bali: Pemuteran and Menjangan Island

Cross the eroded volcanic spine of Bali to its northern beaches and you'll find a more relaxed and ancient way of life. While there are plenty of modern conveniences, you'll be more charmed by the timeless sight of cozy tile roofs nestled amid lush tropical gardens, against the stark red flanks of the mountains. In Pemuteran, there are several well designed resorts where you can get your own breezy cottage with private swimming pool, steps from the beach, for less than $90.

Our recent trip to Adi Assri Beach Resort and Spa was a revelation. I thought I knew Bali before we entered Pemuteran, but this was a whole new experience. Our two bedroom villa with kitchen and private pool was private indeed, surrounded by a wall high enough to see the trees but not fellow visitors strolling the meandering brick paths among its flowery gardens. We felt pampered just stepping out of our gate and off to the black sand beach, where there always seemed to be a waiter nearby, interested in our possible drink interests.

There's a small fishing village about a quarter mile down the beach, with colorful boats and rafts ready to set sail at sunset, as soon as you get your camera ready. Off they drift past the distant volcanoes of Java, which you could probably row to if you set your mind to it, they seem that close. And you wouldn't be alone; every night the sun itself dresses in red and heads toward them for its evening visit. If you can tear your eyes off that ravaging scene, the dinner pavilion is nearby, with a decent selection of seafood and Western favorites. Every night on our return, the A/C was already on, and flowers decorated our freshly made king size bed.

There's a bit of snorkeling around the beach area, and the water's warm and clear. You won't see much wave action in this shallow  stretch of coast. We're coral afficionados, so we took a day trip to Menjangan Island, part of Bali's national park in the northwestern corner. The reef around this island has by far the most beautiful coral and fish I have ever seen in my life, and with little effort you can see everything except the deeper reaches of the wall.  There's a light current to be aware of, but the area is shallow enough that you can snorkel from one end of the other without having to hold your breath. If you're used to snorkeling the Caribbean/Florida reefs, the variety of corals and fish at Menjangan are guaranteed to feed your dreams for the rest of your life.

Ibu Oka Babi Guling, Ubud, Bali

Yummy!

There are a few suckling pig restaurants in Bali, but my favorite is this one. You can get a sampling plate of the best parts of the suckling pig, for just a few dollars. The area is full of Balinese history and culture, and has a famous market area where, for a little haggling, you can buy a sarong for $2, silver jewelry for $10 or so, and lots of other fun stuff.

It wasn't a fish

One of the coolest experiences I had while snorkeling around Bali was seeing a large, fluttery green leaf falling lazily toward the sea floor. Suddenly it sprung to life and swam back toward the surface, hung there for a few moments, then fell again in graceful swirls. I've looked at photos of fish for weeks trying to find this thing, and now am branching out to: nudibranches and polyclad flatworms! Two of the best sites for images of the many forms and colors of these creatures are:
nudipixel.com (if you dont' know a genus from a suborder, just click on the photo menu!)
and
marine flatworms of the world  (this one also has some lovely nudibranch photos)

I still haven't been able to identify all the fish and other fauna I've seen in the waters within a short boat trip of Bali, and don't doubt I'll find more on my next trip!

The more you know...

When you're looking at a map of Bali, planning a potential visit, it's hard to get a good idea of the landscape and potential sightseeing. I had a hard time finding maps that were detailed enough to help me understand what kind of landscape and conditions I'd be facing in different areas. There are some very good blogs about areas like Mt. Batur, Kuta, or the elephant park, but nothing really gives you a complete picture. For example I had hard time finding enough information about Ubud to plan my time there. I'd have loved to go on a bird walk, but it was hard to get details until it was too late to book. If I'd had a third week, I'd have spent at least a part of it at Bali's National Park, not just for the birds and scenery, but because that's where some of the best underwater scenery is too.

When you do go to Bali, keep in mind that, like so many great destinations, it's impossible to take it all in in one visit. You'll find yourself wishing you had more time, more background and more information. There are so many localities that are worth a week in themselves, that it's hard to feel you've really gotten to know the place before it's already time to leave. You can imagine that my enthusiasm for this beautiful island has not waned a bit, and I'll be back for more one day.

Bali the easy way

Some of the nicest beaches, hotels and shoppingareas are quite near the Bali airport. That means you could fly in, spend five minutes traveling and never have to get in a car again till it's time to go home. One enjoyable option would be to simply stay in Kuta. You can find hotels from the comfy and cheap ($21 per night) to glitzy four stars (quite a bit more, but less than you might think), many of which provide breakfast, and all either on the beach or nearby, and some of which provide a free or inexpensive shuttle from the airport. You can get a surfing lesson for about $30, or rent a board right on the beach,
Nice areas of Kuta include Jalan Legian, the main shopping & restaurant street, with hotels as well, about a block from the beach. Jalan Pantai Kuta is the beach road, which can look a little run down, with lots of familiar chain restaurants, but some very good local places as well. You can get a "backpacking" style hotel room with pool in this area for around $45 a night. Rent a motorbike so you can tour the local temples and artisan shops, and you're set for the week!

The Balinese Tooth Filing Ceremony

Balinese people traditionally have their adult incisors and canines filed to make them even, in a ceremony called Matatah. The purpose, as a Balinese friend tells me, is to remove the naturally animal nature, in order to become fully human. There are six negative characteristics associated with this animal nature, including lust, greed and anger, familiar to Christians as three of the seven deadly sins.  Everyone has them to some degree, and tooth filing represents your ability to gain control over them.

It's interesting to me that when Westerners write about this ceremony, they almost invariably refer to Balinese Hindu "castes"-- while I've never heard a native Balinese refer to a caste system, and when I asked a local about it, he said there really wasn't one, unless you count the obsession with lighter skin. The tooth filing ceremony may seem to be related to Hinduism, but artifacts indicate that it was being practiced on the island 2000 years ago, long before the religion was brought there. Tooth filing is performed on both boys and girls, and takes place when the child reaches puberty. Because it's expensive, families must save for the filing and festivities, and may combine it with a baptism or wedding, or a number of children's filings, in order to cut down on the expense.

Judging from the linked video, it looks like it could be uncomfortable at least, if not momentarily painful, but not any worse than the reactions you'd see in a tattoo parlor or the Piercing Hut at the mall, and in my view, a much more attractive outcome.

Planning for Bali

Tickets to Bali can be made a little more reasonable if you book early (think, months ahead), stay open to non-Orbitz based airlines, and plan on spending some of your annual expenses there instead of in the states. Examples: you can buy summer wear for extremely low prices, especially if you are willing to haggle. In more formal stores, ask if they have a discount. You'll invariably get at least 10% off, for jewelry, clothing, rugs furnishings, arts and crafts. Keep in mind that the art of haggling doesn't include insulting the goods or the merchant. Be complimentary of the potential purchase, and make clear that you only have x amount of money to spend on it, or that you found it elsewhere for less. If you have a good driver, bring him along to help you -- they often know when the asking price is too high, and can help you get a better deal.

Another way to write off some of your expense is to take care of minor health issues there. Medical care is much less expensive, and if you know a reliable clinic, you can get an appointment relatively easily. Dermatology and cosmetic care are particularly worth the trouble. On my trip I visited the highly recommended Miracle clinic in Kuta Galleria. My clinician, Dr. Fenny, was charming, highly skilled and extremely careful to make sure I saw the sealed packaging, watched her open the box and create the doses -- I had restylane and botox, for about a third of what I would have paid here. Protocol and side effects were identical to my experience in the US, and she made sure to have me drop in a few days later for a free followup to ensure I was having a good reaction. I can't say enough about her professionalism and kindness, and the great service of her staff.

If you don't need a "freshener" at the spa, think about what a friend does to cover his expenses: he picks up inexpensive and beautiful high quality silver jewelry, handcrafts and fabrics from artisans, and brings them back to the US for local shops. This is something you need a little expertise in, but as long as you stick to goods small enough to pack rather than ship, and make sure you've covered customs and other legal niceties, you can make back the cost of your trip fairly easily.

 Balinese style therapeutic massage is excellent if you have chronic muscle pain or weakness. I used a private masseuse who charged $7 US for a 2 hour massage, but if you don't have a friend in the business, her previous job was at a great place called Body Works, that charges $13 an hour, still a tremendous discount in comparison to similar massage in the US.

Keep in mind that your restaurant dining can be extremely cheap, especially if you visit the beachside barbecues. One of my favorites, in Canggu (pronounced Chan goo), at Echo Beach, offers all you can eat salad and sides, with your pick of entree-- select lobster, prawn, crab, tuna, seabass, or other local varieties for one to a few dollars per 100 grams (this is a little over a quarter pound, or 3.5 oz). The time to be there is sunset, for maximum enjoyment!

Remember that you need to pack very little, Bali is very informal and hot when you're off the beach and not in the mountains, and you can buy a sarong or a cotton sundress for about $2 US if you bargain for it. Some airlines charge extra for baggage, but Cathay Pacific allows you to check in two bags up to 50 lbs each for free! Pack some kids' books to donate to the local school system, as long as you're at it.

Don't worry about booking events or classes in advance, you'll find cheaper places with openings when you get there, and the only way to tell if you're getting a good deal is to actually go to the place and see what they're like. Surfing lessons are cheap at Kuta and Seminyak beaches, and easy to find.  Snorkeling is pretty terrible around Bali, so don't do what I did and book a $50 snorkel excursion to the tiny area they've reserved for this prupose at Nusa Dua. You'll get called in after less than an hour by the pilot, and you won't see anything worth the price. Don't try to learn surfing at Dreamland Beach: the waves are too high and the surf "instructors" are a little shady.

Do google anything you're interested in, and find out what bloggers are saying about them. I learned a lot of very helpful information before leaving, and that's one of the reasons I started my blog, to make sure that you know to google before you go, but commit once you get there!